Denmark has a population of 5.6 million, with over 1.3 million residing in Copenhagen. The people of Copenhagen are known for their understated nature; they never boast, yet they host two of the world’s top-ranking restaurants. Titles such as “most livable city” and “safest city” have long been a part of their daily life. You can often see them cycling through the colorful buildings and the cool Scandinavian air—around 50% of Copenhageners bike to work. On the other side, sunlight reflects off the waters cutting through the city.
Choose one of the many independent cafes in the city. Most emphasize fair trade, and you can order your favorite flavor while watching the everyday life of Copenhageners. Children sit in Christiania bikes, women ride in high heels, fathers push strollers, and stylish people come and go. It’s hard not to fall in love with this scene, which Copenhageners describe with a word that is both highly frequent and emblematic: hygge.
Design
Design is everywhere in Copenhagen. New and old buildings collide, from the Radisson Royal Hotel designed by Arne Jacobsen to the works of “starchitect” Bjarke Ingels (BIG), whose architectural imprint is scattered across the city. One of the most striking recent creations is CopenHill, also known as Amager Bakke, a state-of-the-art waste-to-energy plant located in the industrial waterfront area of Amager, Copenhagen. As you approach CopenHill, you’ll find a rock-climbing installation at its base.
To take in the full view of CopenHill, you need to hike up a long set of stairs from the bottom to the top. With each step you ascend, the surrounding scenery changes, gradually revealing the distant harbor and the Øresund Strait. You can also take the elevator, but that takes away the fun of savoring the changing landscapes. At the top, there’s a small restaurant bar with some outdoor seating. In the summer, securing a spot here is hard, thanks to the spectacular views of the surroundings. Even the CrossFit gym offers a unique experience, with its surrounding scenery setting it apart.
Below the platform is a long, sloping run that leads down to the base of the building. In winter, it becomes a ski slope, and in summer, a grass-skiing track—though the material used resembles grass, it is a smoother substance that allows for faster gliding. For Copenhageners who love outdoor sports, this spot has become a year-round playground. Combined with its unique design concept, it serves as both infrastructure and a distinctive landmark in flat Copenhagen. Through this approach, the 75-meter-high waste incineration center not only generates electricity from the heat it produces, but also integrates a city entertainment center and environmental education hub. It effortlessly combines sustainability with recreational activities, making it a perfect example of urban living sustainability that has earned global praise.
There is a Danish word, samfundssind, derived from samfund (society) and sind (mind), meaning community spirit—an ideal that Copenhageners live by. The use of this word has surged in recent years and is becoming increasingly popular worldwide.
The Harbor Bath is another of BIG’s creations that brings joy to the city’s residents. This easily accessible urban open space has become a cultural and social hub in compact Copenhagen. Life in Copenhagen revolves around water, with countless harbors, canals, and the serpentine bicycle bridge over the river, used by approximately 120,000 people daily. The Harbor Bath transforms the industrial harbor into a city square, extending the waterfront and park, with design considerations for clean lines, safety, flexibility, and harmony with the surrounding skyline. On sunny days, crowds gather here to bask in the sun, play, and dive into the water, enjoying simple pleasures.
The Design Museum Denmark showcases designs of everyday items, highlighting their close connection to daily life. Housed in a beautiful Rococo building since 1926—the former Frederiks Hospital, built between 1752 and 1757 during the reign of Frederick V—the museum recently reopened in 2023 after several years of renovation. The newly paved square, new exhibition spaces, and entrance create a more cohesive space, connecting the café, ticket counter, and shop, offering the public an enhanced platform to experience Danish design achievements.
The Danes are skilled at creating home spaces, from large furniture to small items like table lamps and napkins, aiming to ensure every moment of life is imbued with the hygge atmosphere. Thousands of different chairs, including classic designs by masters and unexpected avant-garde ideas, are on display. Many of them have been exhibited around the world for years and, upon the museum’s reopening, finally returned to the museum in an orderly fashion.
Renowned Danish architect and furniture designer Finn Juhl’s own home, located about an hour’s drive north of Copenhagen in Ordrupgaard, has remained unchanged since it was built roughly 70 years ago, standing as a testament to Denmark’s golden age of design. It feels as though the designer never left. The house, from the architecture to the interior furnishings, is filled with Juhl’s own designs or collections. One of his key design concepts was “from the inside to the outside”—first determining the interior layout of the house, which then influenced the exterior, including the balance between walls and windows and how natural light interacts with the space. A hallmark of his interior designs is the careful selection and application of materials and colors, achieving a unique balance between aesthetics and functionality.
Adjacent to Juhl’s home, the Ordrupgaard Museum, designed by Zaha Hadid, was converted from a Danish art collector’s home built in the early 20th century. The museum not only houses Juhl’s design works but also holds Nordic and French art collections from the 19th and 20th centuries, including masterpieces by Renoir, Monet, Cézanne, Gauguin, Matisse, and Degas. In addition to the renovation of the original house, Zaha Hadid designed an extension, with new galleries cast in black volcanic concrete. The old and new buildings form a wonderful harmony, complementing each other. The modern curving lines blend with the traditional garden, and the heavy feel of the large windows highlights the elegance and charm of the historical structure.
Sustainability
Superkilen Park is another successful example from BIG’s efforts a few years ago to create new communities through design. Located in Nørrebro—a multi-ethnic neighborhood and one of Copenhagen’s most socially challenged areas—in a city space spanning less than 800 meters, art installations have been used to blend elements and objects from 60 different countries and regions, forging a collective identity that also functions as a playground and entertainment hub, binding the multi-ethnic community together. A locomotive sculpture preserves a historical reference to the old train station, while the former station area has been transformed into a cozy community library. The black-and-white skateboard plaza offers a striking visual contrast, and with local youth skating about, it quickly became a melting pot for teenagers of diverse backgrounds. Its popularity on global social media culminated in TimeOut naming it one of the coolest communities in the world in 2021.
Another ongoing community renewal project is the Carlsberg Brewery area. The original brewery closed in 2008, and the historic complex—renowned for its rich architectural heritage—is now emerging as a sustainable, regenerated community. This project, initiated in 2017 by Peter’s company BRIQ, retains historical legacy while integrating innovative designs for modern living. After briefly outlining his planning philosophy, Peter, hurrying back from another meeting, personally led us through the neighborhood. We discovered that the beer storage warehouse has been transformed into a distinctive design hotel; the main red-brick building largely remains intact, featuring circular glass windows inspired by the bottom of the large oak barrels once used to store beer.
The staggered red-brick Carlsberg Research Institute has been organically integrated into the community, while a towering chimney now stands as a local landmark. Adjacent factory buildings have been converted into a school that will accommodate 10,000 students. The former brewery workers’ dormitories, with their preserved vintage façades, have been repurposed into studios and residential units—now among the most sought-after properties in Copenhagen. In the commercial district, shops have been carefully selected to introduce stylish and creative brands that bring surprise and vitality to the community. Ample pedestrian and cycling pathways, linking residential areas and scattered community squares, ensure both safety and comfort. Walking through the area, one can appreciate that every detail—from the overall framework to the minutiae—has been thoughtfully designed to create an atmosphere that is both relaxed and vibrant, setting the stage for an ideal way of life.
“Creating a vibrant community is always the result of collective effort, requiring the involvement of many people—from architects, developers, and engineers, to operators, store owners, local residents, and strategic planners. Countless individuals have played a role in shaping this community, and we are proud to be part of creating and continuously developing this area,” Peter explained as he led us along. “Our initial work involved mapping the site’s DNA through cultural heritage research, establishing a vision, and conducting an on-site analysis of historical buildings and context. Based on this, we divided the community into ten zones, each with its own identity and purpose. For example, we invited innovators from the retail and dining sectors to conceptualize urban living. New developments and the demand for faster, more efficient lifestyles call for fresh urban planning that meets people’s needs, is environmentally friendly, and fosters a sense of well-being.”
This vision reflects a philosophy embraced by all Copenhageners. It is easy to imagine that the Carlsberg Brewery community will become yet another exemplary model in Copenhagen—a perfect synthesis of architecture, urban space, and sustainable living that cherishes historical memory while looking to the future, and values both aesthetic appeal and the convenience and happiness of everyday life.
Dining
Since Rene Redzepi and Claus Meyer transformed an old warehouse into the world-class NOMA restaurant in 2003, Copenhagen has evolved from a culinary wasteland into one of the world’s most important food capitals. It can be said that NOMA single-handedly sparked the city’s culinary inspiration and elevated its overall gastronomic standards. This transformation has not only brought more Michelin stars to Copenhagen’s dining scene but also made food enthusiasts around the globe aware that some restaurants here must be booked well in advance, building a sense of eager anticipation. It is widely known that one often has to wait anywhere from three to six months for a table at NOMA, yet it remains a once-in-a-lifetime culinary experience for food lovers—with unexpected dishes and innovative pairings, artful plating executed with ease, exclusive kitchen tours, exquisite wine pairings, and an unparalleled atmosphere. The latter, in particular, leaves an indelible impression on one’s memory. In 2024, NOMA continued to hold the title of the world’s best restaurant, closely followed by Geranium—also hailing from Copenhagen—which secured the second spot.
At the site of NOMA’s original waterfront warehouse now stands Barr restaurant, founded by former NOMA team members. The interior retains the original warehouse’s robust wooden beam structure and authentic wooden furnishings, and it is here that one can savor the best fried pork chop encountered to date—simply unparalleled.
Alongside the bustling New Harbor, Anton restaurant continues to showcase the timeless elegance of traditional fine dining—with dignified murals, table settings and décor imbued with a sense of time, refined tableware paired with impeccable service, and standout dishes featuring succulent beef and perfectly marinated cod. Their five-course meal leaves every diner completely satisfied.
Copenhagen’s famous Meat Packing District—a culinary zone transformed from an old meat processing market—is hosting the city’s signature “open-faced sandwich” festival. Several local restaurants have introduced inventive varieties of open-faced sandwiches, available for tasting by ticket purchase; each set includes three distinct sandwiches paired with a drink. At dusk, groups of Copenhageners can be seen enjoying plates of these sandwiches along with their beverages, savoring the final moments of summer. That day, five different types of open-faced sandwiches were offered; I sampled three: one adorned with crispy pork skin, another spiced with chili, and a third featuring beef tartare. Each had its own unique flavor profile, and though I expected there would be leftovers, all three selections were completely devoured.
The very next day, we visited FISKEBAR in the Meat District, a hotspot since its launch in 2009. As evening falls and the lights come on, the venue buzzes with energy yet maintains a down-to-earth, relaxed atmosphere—without any compromise on food quality. If you’re unsure of what to order, simply let the restaurant recommend the day’s seasonal specialties. That night, we experienced an extraordinarily gigantic fried fish head—a dish rarely seen in the traditional European culinary repertoire. “We make it a point to use every part of our ingredients,” explained Head Chef Jamie after dinner, “not only as a more sustainable way of dining but also to inspire creative innovations. We truly love doing this.” He then led us on a tour of the bustling kitchen, sharing insights along the way.
Meanwhile, at the globally renowned Tivoli Gardens, the MODU restaurant staged a unique pop-up dining extravaganza, brought to life by three guest chefs—Reifo Kee, who operates a series of restaurants in Dubai; Kristian Baumann from Koan; and Younggijn Kim, head chef at Juju. Together, they crafted a distinctive, 14-course menu that was as individually expressive as it was cohesively unified. The courses ranged from seafood delicacies such as raw oysters, scallops, and various fish, to Asian-inspired dishes featuring pickled vegetables, tofu, and chilled noodles; from crispy duck breast to pasta with spicy chili sauce and stir-fried rice with seared mushrooms; and finally, to refreshing slushes and decadent chocolate desserts. Each dish was meticulously crafted and elegantly paired with different wines, thoroughly satisfying every culinary desire.
Stepping out of the restaurant, the daytime hustle of Tivoli had faded into a unique evening serenity. Under a perfect moonlit sky, with the park nearly empty and deckchairs inviting one to lie back and gaze at the stars, the atmosphere took on an entirely different character. In this quiet interlude, the combined creativity of the three distinguished chefs—Reifo Kee, Kristian Baumann, and Younggijn Kim—once again shone through as they collaborated to create a menu that reflected their individual personalities while forming a harmonious whole. Together, they embody MODU’s innovative spirit.
Nature
Copenhageners never miss an opportunity to embrace nature. In the city’s canals, locals rowing or paddleboarding and tourists cruising in electric boats all share in the joy of being on the water.
Electric boats can be rented right at the dock. These “GoBoat” electric vessels—originating in Copenhagen and now spreading worldwide—offer limited speed and simple handling. As long as you follow basic river navigation rules, such as keeping to the right, you can easily navigate them.
Nature is never far from Copenhagen. A short train or bus ride of less than thirty minutes transports you directly into the great outdoors. In the lush area of Utterslev Mose, Nina and her husband Thomas have opened SANKETURE restaurant. Here, they supply Michelin-starred restaurants with natural ingredients and wild herbs, while also offering guests a foraging experience paired with simple meals. Nina had us grab a bucket and a small knife before leading us toward a nearby grove. Along the roadside, clusters of elderberries hung on the bushes, and we discovered a herb known as “poor man’s pepper” that bears seeds reminiscent of real pepper—a substitute once used by families who couldn’t afford the real thing. Nina showed us how to pick some, mentioning they would be perfect for the bread we were about to make. After about an hour, we also gathered some mulberries and plums. Part of our lunch was spent baking flatbreads in the courtyard, where the foraged ingredients found their place either in the bread or as a fruity complement to enhance both flavor and presentation. Thomas, once a hotel chef and now a passionate tech enthusiast equipped with an array of cameras and drone gear, couldn’t contain his childlike excitement upon seeing our new devices.
A little further from Copenhagen lies Dyrehaven (the Deer Park), a favorite spot for locals to hike or cycle. We rented bicycles from Birger’s shop, and he led us on a ride in a typical Nordic tricycle, guiding us along quiet forest paths and over gentle hills—the nearly flat terrain making for an ideal cycling experience. We encountered herds of fallow deer, with hundreds roaming freely in this nature park known as Dyrehaven; we watched the sunset slowly drift westward as golden rays softly bathed everything in a warm glow; we even caught sight of a castle in the park, which in the summer twilight overlooks the forest on one side and is caressed by sea breezes on the other. How fortunate it is to enjoy such a setting! On our return, Birger, a bit in a hurry, honestly and bashfully confided that he had an important date that evening he couldn’t afford to miss—an endearing testament to his respect for life’s little rituals and details, a happiness that is truly contagious.
